anti-aging
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anti-aging.
We are so used to this term that we hardly question it anymore. If a product promises “anti-aging” on the packaging, then it must be true – right?
Incorrect.
If there's one term that's been overused, it's this one. Few ingredients are truly "anti-aging." In fairness, some should be called "age prevention," because they don't reverse the signs of aging—they just slow or prevent them from getting worse.
Before we get to the ingredients, here's a quick reminder of the three worst things you can do to your skin:
Sun, sugar and smoking
Sun: A little is good - too much is bad. Be sensible.
Sugar: One of the best (and hardest) things you can do for your health and skin is to cut down on sugar. Sugar destroys collagen - think of collagen as the framework of your face. Every time you eat or drink sugar, you take away a piece of that framework - leading to saggy, tired, aged skin.
Smoking: Smoking deprives the skin of oxygen with every puff. Smokers have grey, pale skin. If you smoke, try to quit - the sooner the better.
The next time you pick up a product that promises anti-aging, look for the following ingredients:
SPF
Sunscreen is anti-aging. Proven, beyond a doubt. If you are younger, you could argue that it belongs more in the category of "prevention". It does not fix what has already happened. That is the job of:
vitamin A
Besides SPF, vitamin A is the only ingredient that the FDA recognizes as "anti-aging" in the US. It can reverse the signs of aging, build collagen, repair sun damage and is a true all-rounder. However, there are different forms of vitamin A. If you have had trouble tolerating a product containing vitamin A, it may be that you haven't found the right variant yet.
glycolic acid/lactic acid/salicylic acid
Acids can benefit the skin when used correctly. As exfoliants, they renew the epidermis, improve the absorption of skincare products and can promote collagen production in some well-formulated AHA products. Glycolic and lactic acid are better for dry skin, while salicylic acid is better for oily/combination skin. Start slowly and don't overdo it - less is often more.
vitamins C and E
These two work well together: vitamin C is traditionally water-based (there are also new oil-based variants), while vitamin E is fat-soluble. So they both protect parts of the cell. Both are antioxidants and therefore fall into the "prevention" category.
niacinamide
Also known as vitamin B3. It stimulates the dermis, increases the fat content of the cells and helps to retain moisture. Niacinamide also strengthens the barrier function of the epidermis and shows good results in acne patients as it protects against bacterial attacks.
When should you start using anti-aging products?
- SPF: From birth – but most manufacturers recommend use from 6 months. Babies should also be well protected.
- Vitamin A: If you have acne, your doctor may prescribe a retinoid. Otherwise, start around 30+, depending on your lifestyle. If you get a lot of sun or smoke, start earlier.
- Glycolic acid/lactic acid/salicylic acid: Depending on skin type and lifestyle. For acne, you can use salicylic acid topically early on, the other two from around 25+.
- Vitamins C and E: As early as possible – a good choice to start your skin care routine.
- Niacinamide: From around 25+, depending on skin and lifestyle. Acne? Get started.
The most important thing: Collagen production is directly linked to the ovaries. Our skin is at its best during the most fertile phase. With menopause, the entire system changes, including the skin. Menopause has a direct impact on collagen - as if part of the "framework" is broken down year after year.
Therefore, start caring for your skin early – at the latest when your period starts – and intensify your care from the age of 35+ (or earlier if you experience early menopause or have had a complete hysterectomy).
And don't forget: SPF is essential.
Be Natural, Be Beautiful, Be You - Emma x